Norton belt drive conversion

A Barnett fiber stack is recommended Note: This belt drive is identical to that used in the cNw electric start conversion and if you wanted to upgrade to that at a later time, we will offer you a credit since you will already have part of the system. We would need the front sprocket returned so that we can install the electric start assembly into it. This assuming your front sprocket is undamaged. Since we developed the cNw electric start conversion, we also decided to design and offer a stand alone belt drive.

The rear sprocket and belt is identical to that use in the electric start kit. The front sprocket is also the same but does not have the electric start drive gear, engagement mechanism and bearings.

If you wanted to upgrade to an electric start conversion at a later time, you will be able to buy a partial e-start kit. If this was an AMC type gearbox I would be replacing the two springs that operate the gear selection via the gear change rachet.

These springs have to be correctly formed for the rachet to operate properly. The cheap pattern versions available are almost always a waste of money.

See attachment. The Laydown box might have a slightly different arrangement to select the gears. Is it possible to replace the springs without removing the engine and gearbox if indeed they are the cause of the problem? George, I think you will find that your top gear selection problem is because the upper of the two selector pawls is not fully clicking into place when the carrier returns to its central position.

When you lift the gear lever again the pawl clicks fully home. I have found that even with new pawls and springs this can still occur with a laydown box but tweaking the shape of the pawl spring to give a more pincer shape can cure this. I also found it helped by biasing the return spring to give more pressure to the up going movement; this helps to balance the weight of the lever and end rubber which would otherwise favour down movement.

I achieved this by soldering a thin strip of steel to the appropriate side of the return spring cover as shown below, you can also tweak the return spring to give more upward pressure.

Yes, you can do all this, and most other gearbox work whilst still in the bike. Thank you Peter. Although I have never fiddled with the internals of motorcycle gear boxes I will remove the front cover plate and check it out.

If you don't get the next gear, try giving the lever another nudge instead of going back to the previous ratio. On these boxes you can easily feel the engagement happening. Peter McDermot, your mod a very good idea, btw is for correcting the bias in the gear lever return spring - that is not the selector pawl spring, which simply closes the ratchet pawls.

It's also a good idea to look inside this part because the gear lever return spring can wear grooves into the steel, reducing its effectiveness. Your mod corrects the lever return and eliminates the wear at the same time. I improved the gear selection on my horizontal box by getting the positive stop ratchet pawls built up with wear braze.

There is less lost movement in the gear lever before a shift starts, so you have more chance of it being finished before you give up pushing on the lever On any Norton box, if it fails to give top gear, I would be checking the mainshaft end float. If there is a lot of end floatt, it will make top gear selection less certain. If too much, you will need a new thrust bearing, or a shim behind the old one. Thanks Paul for your response.

I have tried giving top gear another nudge but nothing happens and that is why I have to go back back into third and then into fourth. The inability to engage fourth gear is intermittent and sometimes it engages without any problems.

George, instead of changing back into third try, after you have engaged third initially, just gently lifting the gear lever upwards with your toe. If then, when you select top it engages smoothly, it will be the upper pawl not engaging in the ratchet plate as I described earlier. Thanks for your kind words Paul, I was referring to both the pawl spring and then the return spring, both affect the selection.

The Norton Owners Club Limited. Registered in England No. VAT Reg No Norton Owners Club. Search Search. User account menu Log in. Primary belt drive. I await your wisdom with bated breath! The Commando clutch needs a… The Commando clutch needs a lot of lift and the worm on the laydown and earlier boxes is very 'slow' and requires a lot of lever travel.

Log in to post comments. I've got a diaphragm clutch… I've got a diaphragm clutch and lay down 'box on my ES2. RGM Belt RGM belt drive Thank you for the replies. George, I agree entirely Commercial belt drive conversions I've seen for British bikes have steel reinforced belts, which I agree provide much less elasticity than the Polyamide or Polyester types for which you quoted figures.

Although I have no better data than you on the elasticity of the steel reinforced belts; even times the tiny bit of elasticity inherent in a triplex chain is still not very much.

Moreover, even with a Polyester reinforced belt, how can it provide the elasticity of a well-designed cush drive, yet maintain the required mesh of the belt teeth with the drive sprockets, without severe wear of the teeth? I agree the belt drive has some wonderful advantages, but with due respect, I hold that it is not a suitable substitute for a cush drive. Skip Schloss, skippy cyberport. According to those who have seen his work, the pattern is quite attractive and look especially good when polished.

Follow the link off the front page to the pics of bikes by Kenny Dreer and look at the red one. The simple answer is you don't!! If the setup is made correctly, since the centres of the two shafts are constant, i. As the belt never stretches appreciably, there is no adjustment, and no need for the tensioner. It does work. The Norton Owners Club Limited. Registered in England No. VAT Reg No Norton Owners Club. Search Search. User account menu Log in.