Loosen clamping bolts on Stargazer stem with a 4mm allen key. Lift the rubber cap on the top of the stem. Under it is the headset compression bolt; it is in a vertical position. Remove this bolt completely using a 5mm allen key. Pull the Stargazer stem off the steertube of the bicycle. If the wheels are on the ground there will be no issues, but if the wheels are off the ground make sure the fork doesnt fall out of the frame.
Without removing any headset spacers, slide the stem riser onto the steer tube. It will look like the picture below. Leave the hardware loose for now. Insert the compression bolt inside the steer-tube and tighten the bolt until its snug.
The third solution would be stem risers. A solution that pretty much worked for everyone who wanted to increase handlebar height is adding a stem riser. The usual size is 5 inches or about 13 cm. There are different sizes but I would stick to this as a maximum for reasons which I will explain later on. A stem riser has the same clamping bolts as a stem has which are used in the same way to clamp onto the fork steerer. This type of stem riser works only on threadless steerers, which is where this problem usually occurs because the threaded steerers allow you to increase the handlebar height at will.
Carbon flexes too much for that increased length to be safe. There is an issue with how tight you can clamp a carbon steerer. In other words, a carbon steerer would have a high chance of breaking with a stem riser. The stem riser essentially creates a longer lever on the frame. With a longer lever every time you apply force on the handlebars that force is increased on the steerer and frame.
Aluminum or steel steerer, on the other hand, is perfectly safe to use stem riser on. Metal, even aluminum has more than enough strength to not break with increased length. Another thing I would like to mention is that not every stem riser is equally safe. The thing is, now effectively you have a steerer put together from two pieces, a steerer itself and a stem riser.
In order for it not to come off, the stem riser needs to be thick enough. And more importantly you need to be able to clamp it much harder than a normal stem.
Lots of people came to me with lots of different stem risers. Most of them had a problem that they were not installed properly, and some of them were just not safe enough. The ones that were not safe enough were made from thin aluminum and the clamp would always get loose in time especially if you would push the bike a bit and not ride like an year old.
Before I had them at my shop, I used to order them online for people who wanted to raise their handlebars. An important thing to mention is that it never failed to clamp properly and hold tight during anything you throw your bike into.
The first thing to do is to take off the stem. Because of stem riser being an additional part of this steering system, it needs to hold firmly to the steerer tube.
Usually, what happens is some grease comes there from the headset, especially if your steerer slides down when you are doing this on a bike repair stand.
I usually use some rubbing alcohol or a degreaser to get rid of any grease. Install the stem and tighten the upper cap with a long bolt that you get with the stem riser. Usually, you can tighten the cap bolt to a 4 nM torque for it to work fine but I prefer doing it the old fashion way. This way requires a bit of playing with it, tightening slowly until there is no movement in the headset and then just a bit more to make it firm enough.
If you reach the point that makes turning the wheel difficult it means you tightened it too much. Basically, you need to find the sweet spot in between. After that is tightened properly, straighten the stem riser and the stem in a riding position.
Since the stem riser is a separate part I like to turn it in a position so that the bolts are straight behind the steerer to make it aesthetically pleasing. Now you can tighten the stem properly. Stem clamping bolts are fine if tightened as it is written on the stem, most are nM, although you should check your own. I do this first so that the bolts stay aligned for the already mentioned aesthetics. When you are done, check once more for headset movement, and that nothing turns in comparison to the wheel.
In my opinion, it depends on how you ride and what your goals are.
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